"Enlightened," Taipei
Ba Jia Jiang #1
Ba Jia Jiang #2
A man comes face to face with a Taiwanese god at the opening ceremony of the Dajia Mazu, the world's third largest religious pilgrimage -- Jenn Lann Temple, Taichung
I reached Jiufen, the old gold mining town that inspired Hayao Miyazaki's Spirited Away, and the skies began to rumble with distant thunder.
Tsou tribal elder, Alishan
Looking south from the summit of Jade Mountain, Taiwan and Northeast Asia's highest mountain.
Fisherman on the volcanic shore of Lanyu (Orchid Island)
At the Taiwan International Hot Air Balloon Festival 2020
Lion dance performers, Dajia
Republic of China flags flying in front of the spectacularly named Gate of Great Centrality and Perfect Uprightness – Taipei
Flag dancers practice their routine in Taipei's Liberty Square
Flag dancer frozen mid-routine against a backdrop of the Taiwan National Concert Hall
Detail from the Land God Temple at Badouzi harbor in Northeast Taiwan
Fuyou Temple in Tamsui, a riverside town in New Taipei.
A blind singer performs upbeat Chinese classics to passersby in Tamsui
A photographer catches one of Tamsui's famous sunsets
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Giant dragon lantern in honor of the Mid-Summer Ghost Festival in Keelung City
Performers in the Ghost Festival parade on September 4th, 2017.
Gypsy dancers mesmerize the crowd as they pirouette through Keelung on September 4th.
I couldn't get enough of these performers dressed as Chinese gods. They kept running right at me and veering away at the last second.
Various clubs and organizations marched by the crowd, dignitaries, and photographers
Women of all ages performed synchronized dance routines
From my privileged spot on the action side of the crowd barrier, I was free to interact with the marchers who were happy to smile and wave back at me
This diablo display team attracted an excited fan who ran along side them screaming. I remember the days when I was that passionate about diablos too.
Women of all ages danced in teams for the crowd. Being at this event was a privilege, and also, it made me realize how much of a cultural powerhouse Taiwan is for its tiny size.
11/11, National Day of the Republic of China: I walked toward the presidential palace to see the parade, but was caught up in a raucous protest.
Freedom of speech and the right to protest are protected by the government and exercised by the people in Taiwan.
In 1949, the R.O.C. lost the civil war to Mao's communists. The R.O.C government, elites, military, academics, monks, and civilians (2 million total) retreated to Taiwan with all of China's gold.
Chiang Kai Shek, leader of the R.O.C. at that time, assumed control of Taiwan and swore to retake the mainland one day. He ruled Taiwan with an iron first until his death in 1975.
The brilliant neon of Liaoning Street, Taipei.
I first visited Taroko Gorge National Park on vacation in 2009; eight years later, I returned to retrace my steps. In the space of 20km from the east coast, spectacular peaks rise to over 3,000m.
Eternal Spring Shrine clings precariously to a sheer mountainside not far from the West entrance to Taroko Gorge National Park
At Baoan temple in Datong District, Taipei. Seconds later, the man threw red moon blocks onto the floor to communicate with the gods.
Outside Baoan Temple that same day, a romantic engagement photo shoot was taking place.
Taiwan's west and east coasts are polar opposites, separated by 3,000m+ peaks. The west is industrial and densely populated, whereas the east is lush with few people. This was in Taitung County.
I cycled through the rural township of Chihshang under dramatic January skies to blow away the cobwebs and focus on the year ahead.
A buddhist monk leaves Fo Guang Shan Monastery, located into the countryside from Kaohsiung City.
Four hundred and seventy Buddhas split by a sunbeam inside Great Compassion Shrine, Fo Guang Shan Monastery
Republic of China soldiers standing guard at the National Revolutionary Martyrs' Shrine in North Taipei, a building commemorating the Republic's war dead.
Chinese New Year preparations: A pair of decorated Chinese gods under a tent in Dadaocheng Park — Dihua Street, Old Taipei
I watched as these women lit three sticks of incense and bowed, before plunging them into the burning pit under the watchful eyes of the man with the gray ponytail — Xiahai Chenghuang Temple
Residents of Nangan island in the Matsu archipelago. The razor wire harks back to when People's Liberation Army "frogmen" would swim ashore to hunt nationalists after dark.
In Matsu, folk religion meets military frontier. Giant granite plaques face Mainland China carved with "Fight against the communists, resist the Russians, kill Ju De, and remove Mao Zedong!"
A man in a trance-like state to allow the god of Jinghai Temple to communicate through him — Penghu Island
After sprinting down temple steps toward a warehouse housing a ceremonial ship, with eyes closed, the man possessed by the god of Jinghai Temple began waving a pair of swords wildly above his head.
At this point, his energy seemed to dwindle, and so thinking it was coming to an end, I started packing up my gear and moved toward the exit.
But no, when I reached the bottom of the steps, he picked up the pace again, and my local friend told me the scene would continue for hours.
For those planning to walk the Dajia Mazu, ear plugs are essential. The loudest firecrackers imaginable are let off 24/7 along the 9-day 330km route
In Changhua City, enormous lit firecrackers were hurled into the paths of performers dressed as Taiwanese gods and folk characters. Many remain in costume as well as character for much of the route.
Scenes in Changhua become particularly boisterous as gangsters from rival clans fight to keep a statue of the goddess Mazu on their turf for as long as possible. Doing so will bring luck and fortune.
On the fourth day—a much needed rest day for pilgrims halfway through 330km—I found sacrificial pigs lined up outside Xingang Fengtian Temple to honour the birthday of Mazu — Chiayi County
Before sunrise from 3,952m above sea level -- Summit of Jade Mountain (Yushan)
Looking east from the summit of Jade Mountain (3,952m), Northeast Asia's highest peak. The colours were other-worldly so early in the morning -- Yushan National Park
My fellow hikers at the summit of Jade Mountain. Permits are difficult to acquire, so I went with the excellent Blue Skies Adventures who took care of it all.
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